Posts Tagged ‘skiing’

La Grave – beautiful & deadly – ski resort crying out to be in a bond film

Sunday, October 25th, 2009

 

what no lifts & trails?  la grave looks like alpine wilderness... because it is

what no lifts & trails? la grave looks like alpine wilderness... because it is

 On the fringe of conventional ski holidays can be found the odd ski resort with a special reputation - here’s what La Grave.com has to say about skiing la grave:

 

“By exploring the domain of La Grave-La Meije, you are not in a typical ski resort.
This is a real mountain environment as you head down in an unmarked, and non-patrolled area at your own risk.

You must be aware of all mountain hazards including rocks, avalanches, crevasses, and be ready for the possibility of drastic weather changes.

In 30 minutes, the cable-car (téléphérique) takes you to 3200m, where you can create your own itinerary for the descent. You can choose from vast glacial escapes to steep chutes, a world away from the marked trails, the ropes, and the signs of a ski resort. Let your skill level and your inspirations guide you.

This freedom requires a certain technical level, but more importantly humility, responsibility, and respect for Mother Nature.
For yours and everyone’s well-being and piece of mind, you need to take certain precautions before heading out.”

 

This is the (no) piste map: 

thats right, there is not piste on the la grave piste map

thats right, there is no piste on the la grave piste map

 

Unlike pretty much any other ski area in the world, on the la grave piste map the “restaurant” symbol is heavily outnumbered by the “severe danger” symbol.

 

perhaps the most dangerous beautiful place in the alps

perhaps the most dangerous "beautiful place" in the alps

 

There’s no doubt that La Grave is something special… and perhaps your skiing needs a little magic too, to fully appreciate what it has to offer.

But you don’t need to be Doug Coombs to ski la grave – you can enjoy spectacular off piste heaven in comparative safety if you (1) hire a local guide and (2) are very honest about your skiing or snowboarding ability.

 

The ski village made for a bond film

 

I planned to seduce the beautiful Swiss agent, but the Austrian dwarf got there first

I planned to seduce the beautiful Swiss agent, but the Austrian dwarf got there first

 

 While I’ve yet to find a ski resort I have not enjoyed skiing and apres ski in, there are in truth very few places left in the mountains that maintain the style, charm and authenticity of the Cortina or Saint Moritz of old…

… staying and skiing in la grave is the closest you can get (in 2010) to being in a 60’s Bond movie.

 

youve just dispatched the Austrian dwarf, but this French shepherd has you hemmed in...

I dispatched the Austrian dwarf, but the French shepherd had me hemmed in...

 

La grave is beautiful, unspoiled and, as is given away by the cars parked in its streets, that perfectly vintage-glam mix of old local familes and old-money ski-tourist.

No doubt there’s more than the odd parvenu here, but you can kid yourself that you’re rubbing shoulders with discreet European minor royalty and David Niven types.

was that Stephanie Monaco? dont stare, act casual... talk loudly about how many ponies you need to play polo full time

was that Stephanie de Monaco? don't stare, act casual... talk loudly about how many ponies you need to play polo full time

 

It created for us the perfect foil for La Grave, to visit Alpe d’Huez and Les Deux Alpes before coming here.

The latter two ski resorts provide everything that the modern package ski holiday maker has come to expect from their ski holidays – massive and modern lift infrastructure, huge variety of accommodation, eateries and nightlife, well organised on piste safety.

La Grave is everything that the modern ski resort is not – un-pisted (if not entirely un-patrolled), beautifully aged mountain village, small apres ski scene, higher cost of guided skiing.

 

beautiful mountain village is the antithesis of a ski resort

beautiful mountain village is the antithesis of a ski resort

 

La Grave might not fit most peoples idea of a ski resort, but that’s precisely its charm – the authenticity of a proper, old fashioned mountain village, coupled with proper all-mountain skiing and snowboarding.

 

Un-pisted, un-tamed… un-safe?  possibly.

Un-dimned, un-blunted, un-spoiled?  Definitely.

And we love it!

 

Jimmy says get your piste-softened, lift-cossetted, choc-chaud-pampered arse out on a real mountain

Jimmy says "get your piste-softened, lift-cossetted, choc-chaud-pampered arse out on a real mountain"

 

NEXT:    The Day the Wheels Fell Off – Murphy’s law takes charge of the Grand Alpine Tour next leg to Bourg Saint Maurice & Les 3 Vallees

First week on Grand Alpine Tour of european ski resorts

Friday, October 9th, 2009
camping in the alps in September is pretty great actually

camping in the alps in September is pretty great actually

After a relatively easy, if un-glamorous trip down from Calais to the French alps, we traded in our nights in highway truck stops for balmy days in a gorgeous French campsite at the foot of Alpe d’Huez ski resort.

Jimmy helps daddy to fetch water to the Airstream

Jimmy helps daddy to fetch water to the Airstream

We get excellent WiFi so I can crack on with a few days of work online which need to be completed before we can start to visit the alpine ski resorts to review their ski holiday facilities.  Jimmy settles in immediately and, along with mummy, befriends a charming Dutch couple who are regulars at the campsite (been coming here for 17 years, and I can see why).

A lot of roadies stay in this campsite for just a night or two, as they’re here to take on the mighty Alpe d’Huez, one of the most famous climbs in the Tour de France – there are also a lot of Dutch caravanners & motorhomers here, among the many French old-timers who have made this their summer/autumn residence in retirement.

I’m struck by the marked difference in the Dutch and French approach to us – bonhommie aught rather to be a Dutch word I think, as one or a couple of Dutch campers come to say hello most days, ask if they can look around the Airstream and enquire enthusiastically about our Grand Alpine Tour - the French only speak or even smile at us after several days of effort with huge smiles all round and “bonjour! ca va?” attempts to engage.

It’s here, and while thinking about this difference between the French and Dutch, that I started to realise just how similar the English and the French really are.

The Dutch are certainly extraordinarily socially capable, when roaming abroad – I think a lot of their confidence comes from the impressive Dutch multi-lingual abilities, of which I am frequently envious, but there is something more to it too.  Maybe its that straightforward matter-of-factness… whatever the reasons, they are one of the most generous and enjoyable of nationalities to meet when travelling.

Ben and Jimmy were immediate friends

Ben and Jimmy were immediate friends

But back to the English and French – yes, we are incredibly similar.  If you look at demographics, a caravanner is most likely to be working class and/or retired so I asked myself, if a French person turned up in a (let’s be honest) fairly flash caravan, in a working class caravan site in the UK, how many of the locals would rush over to say hello… speaking in French?  Not too many is my guess!  But, if that French person made lots of effort to be friendly and engage, no doubt most Brits would be generous and welcoming… and so it went on our first week in the French alps.

turn right, behind the bins to find the waterfall - is everywhere stunning in the French alps?  yes, probably

turn right, behind the bins to find the waterfall - is everywhere stunning in the French alps? yes, probably

By the end of the week Jimmy was saying “au revoir” or rather “ov-war” to everyone and even “bonjour” if the camper had a “doggie” with them.  With French ladies, Jimmy is our secret weapon! (he is a terrible little flirt – gets it from his ma ;-) )

Jimmy checks out the cafe culture in Bourg dOisans, below Alpe dHuez

Jimmy checks out the cafe culture in Bourg d'Oisans, below Alpe d'Huez

 

Next:  driving up (and struggling down) Alpe d’Huez with a 2.5 ton vintage caravan

(if you’ve a business or accommodation in Alpe d’Huez, Get Listed Now on SNO.mobi and I’ll name-check you in the Alpe d’Huez blog post)

Airstream dream becomes sno-mobile reality

Friday, August 21st, 2009
 
vintage Airstream Overlander 1966 and on the right a 1950s one fully polished - now THATs what we need for our sno-mobile!
vintage Airstream Overlander 1966 and on the right a 1950’s one fully polished – now THAT’s what we need for our sno-mobile!

After looking for the perfect vintage Aluminium (Aluminum if you’re American) caravan (travel trailer) for an age, we found the perfect one in the middle of the Arizona desert …

… so I jumped straight on a plane from London UK to Phoenix AZ and bought it from a marvellous American chap who thought I was a ficticious e-person invented by an internet scam artist… he was more than a little surprised when I rolled down his dusty drive the following night in an enormous U-Haul truck!

(use these shortcuts if you’re looking for ski holidays or a ski resort guide)

I could try to write in some joepardy about how my internet search took me down a few bling alleys and also about the bonkers American “dealer” who advertises vintage Airstrreams for sale which he hasn’t actually bought yet…

… but the saga is long and considerably less interesting than the final 5 day adventure to buy my vintage Airstream and drive it 1500 miles to the container port in Texas, to put it on a boat back to England…

… so…

Falling back on the old adge that a picture is worth a thousand words, here are a few images which document what happened when I went to meet retired US marine veteran “Arizona Bill” in the desert, with thousands of dollars cash in my pocket, to buy a caravan which was 6 years older than I am.

Bill is an old-fashioned kind of young guy - hospitality like you used to get...

Bill is an old-fashioned kind of young guy - hospitality like you used to get...

This is Bill – in this picture he is the second owner of a 42 year old vintage aluminum travel trailer - soon to become the former owner of a 42 year old vintage aluminum travel trailer.

I found his particular Airstream after many weeks of online and on-phone searching.  I’m glad it took so long because there are really no short cuts to learning the in’s and out’s of vintage Airstreams.  They are things of beauty and rarity here in the UK, but they really are two-a-penney over in the good ‘ol US - so you need to learn a lot if you’re going to buy one yourself. 

If you can afford to have it done properly, have a real expert do it for you.  If you need to DIY, like me, then take your time… because there are some absolute shockers out there!

1        2        3        4        U  S    MARINE    CORPS !

Arizona Bill is a former US Army infantry captain (don’ t know why I keep thinking marine - perhaps because Bill’s a bit of an anglophile and worked with our Royal Marines).  Having served in some really very difficult circumstances and unpleasant places, Bill has seen things that he would really rather not have… and is more than a little thankful that he is now retired from the armed forces, back into civilian life.  He was selling his Airstream because he used to take his boys camping in it but now has a VW combi for that purpose (much more like camping, than the Airstream “home on wheels” approach).

Understandably, it seemed not entirely credible to Bill that someone might fly eight thousand miles to buy a two ton trailer, which he could not possibly fly back with.  After more than a few emails and phone calls to convince him, Bill seemed to accept that I wasn’t going to ask him to deposit money into a Nigerian bank account – he agreed not to sell the Airstream until I arrived fresh off the plane the next evening.

I decided not, at that stage, to get into a long winded explanation of our clever ski holidays website which is designed to also work on all cell phones… or that his Airstream was about to become a sno mobile on a Grand Alpine Tour of three dozen Swiss & French ski resorts… from Bill’s perspective, the story was already weird enough.

My longish flight was delayed almost to the point of all the rental companies in Phoenix closing but, after literally running around them all, I found not a single one willing to rent me a pickup with tow hitch… once they knew what I wanted to tow… and how far…

… so I rented a U-Haul lorry (truck) and told the nice chap that I was taking my friend’s little boat-trailer down to go sailing in the port of Galveston (next to Houston TX 1,500 miles away) and required a (double the cost) one-way rental.

I finally pulled into Bills yard, up a dirt road amid cacti and wagon ruts (embellishing slightly for effect) – it was dark and Bill was understandably surprised/concerned that the Nigerian internet fraudster had actually materialised and was affecting a British accent and red-eyed cheeriness.

All credit to Bill – he was busy re-attaching the Airstream curtains which he had washed and ironed (!) and even gave me a full set of fresh bed sheets, so I could “test-drive” the Overlander, overnight in his yard.  He even had a cable hooked into his house to show me the vintage fridge freezer was super cold on that hot desert evening.

everything is perfectly formed and it all works!  gas & electric fridge, 3 stove gas hob, gas oven, gas hot water tank, electric water pump, shower with mini-bath, vintage loo (hmm, not sure about that), plus all original furniture

everything is perfectly formed and it all works! gas & electric fridge, 3 stove gas hob, gas oven, gas hot water tank, electric water pump, shower with mini-bath, vintage loo (hmm, not sure about that), plus all original furniture

Cutting a long story only slightly shorter, after a hot but comfortable night, Bill helped me look around the Airstream and all of its facilities and foibles.  We basically spent the day teaching me how to “Airstream” (lighting the water heater, runinng the fridge on gas instead of electric, using the stoves, oven and grill, purging gas, emtpying the black water tank, etc).  I should explain that I have neither owned a caravan before, nor even stayed in one (not since I was 7 anyway).

Bills favourite local bank teller signs to say I bought the Airstream fair and square

Bill's favourite local bank teller signs to say I bought the Airstream fair and square

After a visit to the local bank to pay in the cash and get the title notarised, we returned to Bill’s place where I showered, enjoyed something spectacular in an omelette (what did you call that Bill?) and with a wave and many thanks… I was off!

U-Haul was the only company who would rent me a tow vehicle to pull the vintage Airstream - I thought a cheap 4x4 would be perfect but nope... it had to be a truck!  14ft U-Haul plus 26ft Airstream equals the first 40ft vehicle Ive ever driven - still, only 1500 miles across the US driving on the wrong side of the road!

U-Haul was the only company who would rent me a tow vehicle to pull the vintage Airstream - I thought a cheap 4x4 would be perfect but nope... it had to be a truck! 14ft U-Haul plus 26ft Airstream equals the first 40ft vehicle I've ever driven - still, only 1500 miles across the US driving on the wrong side of the road!

 

first time driving a 40ft articulated vehicle?

1500 miles across the desert?

in a foreign country?

on the wrong side of the road?

… piece of cake!

Inexplicably, I actually asked Bill to drive it out of his yard and to the nearest hard surfaced road… as if that was going to be the trickiest section of the 1500 mile trip!

And then I was on my own…

The road from Bill’s place to the highway had a 3 mile cone-lined narrow section which was almost exactly as wide as my new “rig” – so the first 10 minutes at the wheel were often sphynctre clenching – but I got to the highway as the sun went down… and started truckin’

convoy (right click this link and choose “Open in New Window”, to listen to “Convoy” while reading the rest of this post)

 

nice Rs

nice Rs

The 3 day and night drive from central Arizona to southern Texas was an exercise in ignoring the clock.  My body/brain wasn’t on local time anyway and all that really mattered was to maximise the mileage, rather than to be awake or asleep at the correct local times… so I alternately drove until I was tired and then slept until I was not… repeatedly… for 3 days.

America is PERFECTLY geared up for travelling by road – a road trip is written into the DNA of an American… it’s second nature.

But the US is deceptively big by road,  if you’re from a small island, where you can drive the length in a day and the width in half that.

The highways aren’t different from ours in Britain and neither really are the stops/service stations, its just that its much more normal to be “on-the-road”.  Its normal to drive until you need to sleep and therefore its normal to sleep in a service station car park (you’d have PC plod knocking on your window at 3am if you were found sleeping in the Scratchwood services car park on the M1).

I slept in the Airstream sometimes by day and sometimes night – mostly alongside 18 wheelers, because my “rig” was too long to park with the other RVs and caravans.  It was interesting to note that most people didn’t stop and stare or come to look/talk – interesting because I knew they would do in the UK and Europe – that was the whole point of travelling in it on the www.sno.mobi ski resort tour, to get SNO noticed.

Airstreams – even beautiful vintage ones – are utterly unremarkable in the USA and that’s why mine was just $8000 (approx £5300) from Bill - it would cost over £30k to buy in the UK (well beyond my budget).

I’m ashamed to say it now but that lovely old trailer of mine was bounced along behind the U-Haul truck at 80+mph for most of the trip, because time was tight and I kept telling myself that American miles, like their gallons, are smaller and therefore I wasn’t really do a proper 80!

That night I shared the price of a motel room with El Paso Airstream Guy 

met Mark on the last leg to the port - he was shipping his to Japanese clients

met Mark on the last leg to the port - he was shipping his to Japanese clients

 
On the final night before reaching the sea port of Galveston Tx, coming to the end of my driving wakefulness, I passed a slightly older and beautifully polished Airstream cruising along behind a pickup.  I honked as I barrelled past and thought no more of it until, parked up that evening the owner/driver pulled in at the same station/motel area.  We got to talking and I discovered that Mark was a retired preacher who funded his homeless charity, across the border in Mexico, with a little Airstream dealing on the side… as one does.
polished 50s shows patinated 60s the way forward

polished 50s shows patinated 60s the way forward

Mark’s trailer was an empty shell so he needed a cheap room to sleep in… and my trailer was for camping only (I was determined to put no water or anything else into the tanks before dropping it off for the 4 week boat trip home) …
… Mark needed a place to sleep and, after 3 days on the road, I needed a good shower and shave…
… so we split the price of a room and I used his shower before retiring to the car park outside.
3652961491 1a60d2daa5 image from Airstream dream becomes sno mobile reality post in airstream ski resort tour category
The following day was a comedy of errors as we tried to keep charging Mark’s pickup battery from my U-Haul truck…
… eventually swapped out his alternator…
… then went on a hunt for someone to “purge” (ie empty) my lovely polished aluminium gas tanks, so they’d be allowed on the boat.
Fortunately Mark knows a lot of people (he has shipped a lot of these trailers), but no one could do the job and also give the newly required certificate (its an insurance thing – they’d be sued beyond the horizon if they exploded on a container ship).
In the end we resorted to opening the valves in an industrial area and hoping no one would smell it – very naughty – but it didn’t come out nearly fast enough so I had to give up on those lovely polished tanks.
quite a loss these, but I later discovered you cant get UK/Euro adapters to fill them anyway and theyre not legal (must be steel over here)

quite a loss these, but I later discovered you can't get UK/Euro adapters to fill them anyway and they're not legal (must be steel over here)

Since Mark had been such a cracking chap, I gave them to him to “get what you can on eBay” – which turns out to be rather a lot!
With all of the faffing around, we got Mark’s trailer on the boat before the yard closed for the day, but not my sno-mobile - I would have to return in the morning – so Mark and I said our goodbyes and I drove to the beach to spend my last night in the US…
… and end the road trip…
… as is fitting…
… where the road ends…
cant drive no further, the roads run out

can't drive no further, the roads run out

… at the ocean…
… with a beer.
3652968657 f6671f6d35 image from Airstream dream becomes sno mobile reality post in airstream ski resort tour category

 

NEXT:    the dash to get ski website, caravan and life ready for the Grand Alpine Tour…