Posts Tagged ‘snowboarding’

La Grave – beautiful & deadly – ski resort crying out to be in a bond film

Sunday, October 25th, 2009

 

what no lifts & trails?  la grave looks like alpine wilderness... because it is

what no lifts & trails? la grave looks like alpine wilderness... because it is

 On the fringe of conventional ski holidays can be found the odd ski resort with a special reputation - here’s what La Grave.com has to say about skiing la grave:

 

“By exploring the domain of La Grave-La Meije, you are not in a typical ski resort.
This is a real mountain environment as you head down in an unmarked, and non-patrolled area at your own risk.

You must be aware of all mountain hazards including rocks, avalanches, crevasses, and be ready for the possibility of drastic weather changes.

In 30 minutes, the cable-car (téléphérique) takes you to 3200m, where you can create your own itinerary for the descent. You can choose from vast glacial escapes to steep chutes, a world away from the marked trails, the ropes, and the signs of a ski resort. Let your skill level and your inspirations guide you.

This freedom requires a certain technical level, but more importantly humility, responsibility, and respect for Mother Nature.
For yours and everyone’s well-being and piece of mind, you need to take certain precautions before heading out.”

 

This is the (no) piste map: 

thats right, there is not piste on the la grave piste map

thats right, there is no piste on the la grave piste map

 

Unlike pretty much any other ski area in the world, on the la grave piste map the “restaurant” symbol is heavily outnumbered by the “severe danger” symbol.

 

perhaps the most dangerous beautiful place in the alps

perhaps the most dangerous "beautiful place" in the alps

 

There’s no doubt that La Grave is something special… and perhaps your skiing needs a little magic too, to fully appreciate what it has to offer.

But you don’t need to be Doug Coombs to ski la grave – you can enjoy spectacular off piste heaven in comparative safety if you (1) hire a local guide and (2) are very honest about your skiing or snowboarding ability.

 

The ski village made for a bond film

 

I planned to seduce the beautiful Swiss agent, but the Austrian dwarf got there first

I planned to seduce the beautiful Swiss agent, but the Austrian dwarf got there first

 

 While I’ve yet to find a ski resort I have not enjoyed skiing and apres ski in, there are in truth very few places left in the mountains that maintain the style, charm and authenticity of the Cortina or Saint Moritz of old…

… staying and skiing in la grave is the closest you can get (in 2010) to being in a 60’s Bond movie.

 

youve just dispatched the Austrian dwarf, but this French shepherd has you hemmed in...

I dispatched the Austrian dwarf, but the French shepherd had me hemmed in...

 

La grave is beautiful, unspoiled and, as is given away by the cars parked in its streets, that perfectly vintage-glam mix of old local familes and old-money ski-tourist.

No doubt there’s more than the odd parvenu here, but you can kid yourself that you’re rubbing shoulders with discreet European minor royalty and David Niven types.

was that Stephanie Monaco? dont stare, act casual... talk loudly about how many ponies you need to play polo full time

was that Stephanie de Monaco? don't stare, act casual... talk loudly about how many ponies you need to play polo full time

 

It created for us the perfect foil for La Grave, to visit Alpe d’Huez and Les Deux Alpes before coming here.

The latter two ski resorts provide everything that the modern package ski holiday maker has come to expect from their ski holidays – massive and modern lift infrastructure, huge variety of accommodation, eateries and nightlife, well organised on piste safety.

La Grave is everything that the modern ski resort is not – un-pisted (if not entirely un-patrolled), beautifully aged mountain village, small apres ski scene, higher cost of guided skiing.

 

beautiful mountain village is the antithesis of a ski resort

beautiful mountain village is the antithesis of a ski resort

 

La Grave might not fit most peoples idea of a ski resort, but that’s precisely its charm – the authenticity of a proper, old fashioned mountain village, coupled with proper all-mountain skiing and snowboarding.

 

Un-pisted, un-tamed… un-safe?  possibly.

Un-dimned, un-blunted, un-spoiled?  Definitely.

And we love it!

 

Jimmy says get your piste-softened, lift-cossetted, choc-chaud-pampered arse out on a real mountain

Jimmy says "get your piste-softened, lift-cossetted, choc-chaud-pampered arse out on a real mountain"

 

NEXT:    The Day the Wheels Fell Off – Murphy’s law takes charge of the Grand Alpine Tour next leg to Bourg Saint Maurice & Les 3 Vallees

Les Deux Alpes – the upside down ski resort

Saturday, October 17th, 2009
sno mobile is above the ski lifts but no sno yet

sno mobile is above the ski lifts but no sno yet

We all know how learning to ski or snowboard goes – you spend your first wobbly day or two of the ski holiday within arms length of the cafes, on a nursery slope as steep as… well its almost completely flat. Then you progress a little further from the ski resort up the hill and find a slightly steeper bit called a green run.. and then a blue piste to go a bit quicker… and so on until you’re taking ski lifts high up the mountain to the top ski lifts where the best snow and most extreme gradients (and rates of decent) are to be found.

Not so when skiing Les 2 Alpes

Often called “the upside down ski resort”, Les Deux Alpes is so named because, unlike pretty much every other major ski resort in the world, 2 Alpes keeps its easiest and nursery slopes at the top of the mountain… and its fiendishly challenging stuff down at the bottom near town.

This has two VERY important consequences:

1. it is one of the best places to learn to ski and snowboard in the world

2. it is one of the scariest places for a beginner to miss the last lift back down in the world

Set your alarm for 15:30 and find a lift down!

beginner slopes up on the glacier

beginner slopes up on the glacier

With the biggest skied glacier in Europe you can get plenty of summer piste time in at Les 2 Alpes, but the highest area can be shut down in winter if blizzards make it unsafe.  Les Deux Alpes is probably best known as the home of one of Europe’s if not the worlds top snow parks, which is moved up and rebuilt from its winter 2600m to 3200 for the summer season.  Near the top, Les Deux Alpes is also linked to the legendary off piste of La Grave – only to be attempted with a mountain guide!

You wouldn’t believe it if you’d walked and driven around with us, but Les 2 Alpes is also the second oldest ski resort in France (after Chamonix Mont Blanc).  A very dificult fact to take in, as you navigate this enormous and modern looking ski town.

Arriving for a quick day of work there in early October, we probably couldn’t have picked a quieter time to visit, but we were still amazed by how utterly deserted it felt.

Crossing from one empty street into a second, we were stopped by a huge shaven-headed biker with black paint brush in hand.

He turned out to be a a cracking chap from Paris, down to help his friend do up her bar, and a huge fan of vintage Americana - expressing his enthusiasm in much better English than my French, we couldn’t but stop and invite the whole family in for a closer inspection.  (sorry for not taking a picture, we got carried away gassing about bikes & caravans in franglais)

As fickle as I know it sounds, this one encounter completely changed my opinion of the place and its now at the top of the “must go back to” list for this season.  As I used to say when making telly, its always about the people.

having met only 1 business owner, will Les Deux Alpe get www.SNO.mobi ?

having met only 1 business owner, will Les Deux Alpe "get" www.SNO.mobi ?

We put our little post card into pretty much every business and accommodation letterbox we could find but met just one business owner in this entire ski resort – how useful is that going to be for getting SNO known in 2 Alpes?

Would you believe that Les Deux Alpes has had one of the biggest responses and new business Listings created since we launched last season!

 

New Les Deux Alpes ski accommodation & resort business added this week   Evolution 2    |    Bensbus    |    The Secret Bar    |    Le Majestic

snowboard Les Deux Alpes skiingsnow forecast Les 2 Alpes weather forecast  |  les 2 alpes webcam  |  snowboard les 2 alpes

 

NEXT:    La Grave – off piste mecca, but did you know the village was so beautiful, unspoiled and posh!

(add your La Grave ski resort accommodation or business now and I’ll name-check you in the next blog post)